Camino de Santiago day 1:Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Note: We walked this route in Spring 2023, and we have done our best to keep the details in this post accurate since then. A few prices, albergues, and small logistics may have changed, so double-check anything time-sensitive before you rely on it.
Over the Pyrenees and Into the Forest
We had been talking about walking the Camino de Santiago for literal years. Years of pinning maps to walls, watching every vlog we could find, and packing practice bags in our living room like weirdos. Then one Sunday morning in April, I accidentally rolled deodorant all over my face thinking it was sunscreen, and we walked out the door to start the Camino. So that set the tone for the whole trip, really.
If you haven't already checked out our packing essentials post, go do that first. Your feet will thank you around kilometer 15 (if they're still on speaking terms with you).
What You're Getting Into
The first two days of the Camino Francés will humble you, thrill you, and absolutely make you ugly cry at least once. They did all three for us, sometimes within the same hour. Here's what actually happened and everything we wish someone had told us before we started.
Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
Everybody and their guidebook calls this the hardest day on the entire Camino Francés, and everybody and their guidebook is correct. You start at 170 meters above sea level in the stupidly charming French town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and climb to 1,430 meters over the Pyrenees before descending into Roncesvalles on the Spanish side.
That's nearly 4,600 feet of elevation gain. On Day 1. When your legs are still fresh and naive and have no idea what they've signed up for.
"We're just gonna hope that Abby doesn't die."
We left at 7:30 a.m. on April 23rd. The trail goes uphill from the literal moment you leave the city gates, and it does not let up for the next 20 kilometers.
But holy cow, it's beautiful. Cow herds on every hillside, baby horses, sheep everywhere, the sun peeking through over the mountains. Can't fault the view or the ambiance (even if your lungs are staging a coup).
The Pilgrim Office and Your Credential
Before you leave Saint-Jean, you'll stop by the Pilgrim Office on the Rue de la Citadelle to grab your Camino passport (called a credencial). The volunteers stamp it, hand you a shell, and walk you through the route options.
The woman who helped us was probably in her 80s, absolutely adorable, and spoke just enough English to warn us about the descent. She kept waving her hand downward saying "whoosh whoosh whoosh all the way down" and then shaking her head very seriously. She was not exaggerating.
The Rock Tradition
Pilgrims traditionally carry a rock from home and leave it at the Cruz de los Peregrinos (the iron cross further along the route) as a way of symbolically setting down something you want to leave behind. We completely forgot to bring a rock. Then we forgot to have one shipped over. So we just grabbed a piece of shale off the trail. It's pretty prevalent in Arkansas, so we figured it counted.
Napoléon Route vs. Valcarlos Route
You have two options for crossing the Pyrenees. The Napoléon Route is the famous ridgeline walk with the jaw-dropping panoramic views, and that's the one we took. The Valcarlos Route follows the valley floor along the road with significantly less climbing. If the weather is sketchy, take Valcarlos.
The Napoléon Route closes completely from November through March, and you can actually get hit with a 12,000-euro fine for attempting it during that period. Not a typo. Twelve thousand euros.
The Climb Out of Saint-Jean
The Napoléon Route climbs steadily for 20 kilometers. The first five kilometers to Hunto felt like a warmup, and then the real hills started. We passed the first refuge at Hunto and kept pushing to Orisson, about eight kilometers from Saint-Jean.
Refuge Orisson
We wanted to stay the night at Orisson to split this monster stage into two manageable days. Couldn't get a bed. The place books out weeks in advance during peak season, so if splitting Day 1 sounds appealing to you (and it should), reserve your spot early. They serve coffee, snacks, and fresh orange juice on a terrace with views that make you forget your thighs are on fire. Even if you're just passing through, stop here.
The Part Where the Weather Tried to Kill Us
After Orisson, the trail keeps climbing into wide-open mountain pasture with zero protection from the elements. This is where the Pyrenees decided to personally victimize us.
For roughly 10 kilometers, we walked straight into a headwind with stinging rain pelting our faces. I don't know how fast the wind was blowing, but I could feel it on every single step. Like trudging. Just constant trudging.
The climb alone would be a tough hike on any calm, sunny day. Add the wind and rain and it's a whole different beast. When the weather finally broke, it was like losing 20 pounds instantly. We could suddenly stand upright again.
The trail does have some modern touches along the way. Little free water fountains with emergency call buttons and even free Wi-Fi pop up at the higher points. I'm pretty sure the 12th-century pilgrims would have thrown a minor tantrum for those perks.
Don't Miss This
Around kilometer 23, you'll hit a fork in the road near a 112 emergency help sign. Take the footpath to the right. The left path is very, very steep, and pretty much everybody you meet will warn you not to go that way. Listen to them. Your knees are about to do 800 kilometers of work. Don't wreck them on Day 1.
The Descent Into Roncesvalles
The last 4.2 kilometers descend steeply into Roncesvalles, and "descend" is doing a lot of heavy lifting in that sentence. The path is rocky, slippery, and relentless.
I switched to sandals for the descent because I've learned the hard way that jamming my toes into the front of my boots on downhills means misery the next morning. Yes it was freezing and raining. No I don't care. Sandals on descents save toenails.
The town tricks you, by the way. You can see Roncesvalles from above but you can't walk straight to it. The trail winds through cow fields, down slippery hills, through a pretty forest, and then dumps you into the village the long way around.
Meanwhile, Davis spotted the town from the ridge and immediately wanted to sprint down a goat path straight to it because, and I quote, "that's the straight shot as the crow flies." He had a knee brace on his bum knee. It was Day 1 of a 50-day journey. Thankfully he married someone with wisdom and a stick.
Checking Into Roncesvalles
Albergue de Peregrinos de Roncesvalles
- Beds: 183, in four-person cubicle-style compartments
- Check-in: Opens at 2:00 p.m., doors close at 10:00 p.m.
- Open: Year-round
- Reservations: Strongly recommended during peak season (April through October). Book here.
- Shoes: Absolutely not allowed inside. Bring sandals or flip-flops or you'll be that barefoot person shuffling around awkwardly. (Ask me how I know.)
They have a pretty good system going. When you walk in, the staff hands you a colored necklace (your medal of honor, as Davis called it). You wait for them to call your color, and groups of about 10 go in at a time to claim beds. Hundreds of pilgrims pour in at roughly the same time, so the color system keeps things moving.
Public albergues typically reserve about half their beds for reservations and leave the rest open for walk-ins, though this varies by location.
The Dinner Ticket Thing
This confused us. You can't just walk into a restaurant and order the pilgrim meal. You have to go back to the albergue at 5:30, stand in line, and get a dinner ticket first. Then you present the ticket at the restaurant.
They only serve dinner at 7:00 and 8:30. If you miss the ticket window, you can still eat at the restaurants at regular price, but the pilgrim meal ran us about 12 euros (check current pricing when you arrive) for pasta, chicken and fries, a whole bottle of wine for the table, and yogurt dessert. That's a steal after the day you just had.
The Stream Bath (Our Terrible Brilliant Idea)
Because we are insane, we walked to a stream that runs around the edge of town and sat in the freezing water after our hike. I know. It's raining. It's cold. It sounds nuts.
But we've done this after a couple of our big hikes back in the States, and it's the only thing that seems to keep my hip flexors from staging a full mutiny the next morning.
I had tweaked my right hip flexor slash groin area early in the day, and every other step was a little painful by the end. So even though the stream bath sucked super bad going in, the alternative was worse.
Davis was literally crying. But the next morning? We could walk. Worth it.
The hardest day is done. You crossed the Pyrenees. Everybody says it's smooth sailing from here. (Everybody is a liar, but we'll get to that.)
What We Learned on Day 1
Book Orisson early. We didn't, and we regretted it. Walking the full 25 kilometers on your very first day is brutal when you could have split it into two.
Moleskin lies when it's wet. Davis got a blister on Day 1 when his sock shifted inside a wet boot. Regular adhesive bandages held better. Pack both.
Trekking poles are not optional. Abby tweaked a muscle on Day 1 that haunted her for days. This is a marathon, not a sprint, no matter what the goat-path-loving man you married tells you.
We Survived the Pyrenees
Day 1 is the day everybody warns you about, and now we understand why. We arrived in Roncesvalles sore, soaked, and completely in love with this stupid, beautiful, brutal trail.
Next up, we walk through a forest full of witches into Zubiri. Catch the full playlist on YouTube, or grab our packing essentials if you're still planning.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Hard Is Day 1 of the Camino Francés?
Day 1 is widely considered the hardest day on the entire 800-kilometer route. You climb 1,400 meters over 25 kilometers while crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain. Weather on the exposed ridgeline can change fast, and headwinds alone can add hours to your day. Most pilgrims finish in seven to nine hours.
Should I Take the Napoléon Route or the Valcarlos Route?
The Napoléon Route follows the ridgeline with dramatic panoramic views and is the classic Camino experience. The Valcarlos Route follows the valley floor with less climbing and is the safer choice in rain, fog, or wind. The Napoléon Route is officially closed from November through March, and walking it during that period can result in a fine.
Should I Split Day 1 and Stay at Orisson?
If your schedule allows it, splitting Day 1 by staying at Refuge Orisson (about 8 km from Saint-Jean) is a smart move, especially for first-time long-distance hikers. Orisson has roughly 30 beds and fills up weeks in advance during peak season, so book early through their website.
Do I Need a Reservation at the Roncesvalles Albergue?
Reservations are not required, since the Roncesvalles albergue holds half its 183 beds for walk-ins. But during peak season (April through October), we would strongly recommend booking ahead. Arriving after a Pyrenees crossing without a guaranteed bed is stressful in a way your body does not need.
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