Camino Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
We left Roncesvalles on April 24th under overcast skies that actually cleared up by afternoon (a genuine miracle after the wind and stinging rain that hammered us the day before). The trails stayed quiet, the forest turned out to be haunted, and the day ended with a river crossing into a town named after curing rabies.
Leaving Roncesvalles
We stayed at Albergue Orreaga in Roncesvalles the night before (the massive public albergue inside the old monastery complex). Checkout in the morning is a shuffle of a couple hundred pilgrims packing bunks at once, and everyone tries not to wake the person next to them and fails completely.
The first breakfast stop is Burguete (about 5 km down the trail), so we got moving fast on empty stomachs. Right as you leave town, you pass a trail marker that stops you cold... The marker reads KM 790 to Santiago and sits under the yellow arrow and scallop shell in the Navarra region. Seeing an actual number that big, this early, is a gut check.
The Witch Forest
Almost immediately after leaving Roncesvalles, the trail slips into a beech and oak forest called Sorginaritzaga (Basque for "oakwood of witches"). The forest is tied to a documented history of witch trials, and crosses were put up nearby to try to keep witches out. The morning light barely makes it through the canopy, so the whole thing feels appropriately eerie even in broad daylight.
Stock Up in Burguete
Burguete has the first ATM since Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, plus two bars that open early for coffee. Grab cash and caffeine in Burguete before the trail gets quiet again.
Through Burguete and Espinal
Burguete itself has a literary claim to fame. Hemingway used to stay here to fish for trout in the Irati River before and after the running of the bulls in Pamplona.
From Burguete the trail continues to Espinal, then climbs gently toward the Alto de Mezkiritz at 920 meters (the high point of the day). None of it compares to the brutality of the Pyrenees crossing. The climb to Mezkiritz and the second rise to the Alto de Erro at 800 meters are both described by nearly every guide as "not overly strenuous," and that's pretty accurate.
The wind stayed out of our faces today, and we took that as a small mercy.
Stone Bridges and Old Friends
The first half of the day winds through pastureland and forest with a stream babbling alongside the trail almost the whole way. Ancient stone bridges cross it at odd intervals the whole way.
We ran into Nicholas and Christian again (the Danish guys we'd had dinner with the night before in Roncesvalles). That's the rhythm of the Camino. You pass the same faces over and over, drift apart during the day, and land in the same town by evening like nothing ever happened.
Watch for the Locals
A fluffy white dog wandered up like the official welcoming committee, and then it bit me. It was old and had almost no teeth left, so it was more of a gum situation, but the betrayal still stung.
The Descent Into Zubiri
The last stretch out of the Alto de Erro drops 275 meters into Zubiri on a trail that turns rocky, steep, and slippery fast. I was already nursing a groin injury from Day 1, and that descent turned into a genuine struggle. Shooting pain ran down the leg on every other step, and the descent brought a few tears and a few breakdowns.
You know you're close when the trail spits you out at the edge of the Río Arga and the medieval Puente de la Rabia comes into view. Built sometime around the 12th to 15th century (sources disagree on the exact date), the bridge gets its name from a local legend. Walk an animal (or a person) around its central pillar three times and you'd be cured of rabies.
We didn't test it. In hindsight, maybe we should have. I'd just gotten bitten by a strange dog a few hours earlier.
What Day 2 Cost
We stayed at Albergue de Palo Avellano in Zubiri, right at the entrance near the bridge. Here's the exact breakdown from that night.
Day 2 Spending
- Albergue de Palo Avellano cost €18 per bed ($39.43 total for two).
- Food cost $58.59.
- The Day 2 total came to $98.02.
- The cumulative Camino total after two days reached $397.07.
Eighteen euros a bed was the most expensive night of our entire Camino. The albergue had a pilgrim menu, a big living area, and a cabin-like bunk room. It was a bit cramped with one small bathroom, but it was clean and we got a good night's sleep.
Pro Tip
Book Zubiri ahead if you can. We didn't have a reservation and arrived late because of my injury, so we couldn't get into any of the other albergues. Palo Avellano had a bed for us, and we would have happily paid 100 bucks for it.
Onward to Pamplona
Two days in, we already had a full injury report, a bite mark, and a bank account that was $397 lighter. We also had a rhythm going. The trail teaches you fast that some days will wreck you, some days will apologize, and either way you wake up and walk again.
Catch the full playlist on YouTube, or check out Day 1 if you missed the Pyrenees crossing that started it all.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Hard Is Day 2 of the Camino Francés?
Day 2 from Roncesvalles to Zubiri is considered moderate, a significant step down from Day 1's Pyrenees crossing. The trail covers about 21.5 km with two gentle climbs (920 m and 800 m) and one steep, rocky 275-meter descent into Zubiri that catches many pilgrims off guard.
Do I Need to Book a Bed in Zubiri in Advance?
Booking ahead is smart, even though the Camino Francés is normally a walk-up route. Zubiri is a small town with limited beds, and it regularly sells out in peak season, especially since it's the first realistic stop after Roncesvalles for most pilgrims. If you can't book ahead, plan to arrive early.
Where Should I Stay in Zubiri?
One good place to stay in Zubiri is Albergue de Palo Avellano, which sits near the entrance to town by the medieval bridge and cost us 18 euros a bed. Zubiri has other albergue and hotel options too, but beds can go fast, so booking ahead is worth it if your schedule allows.
How Far Is It From Roncesvalles to Zubiri?
Roncesvalles to Zubiri covers about 21.5 km on foot, typically taking 5 to 6 hours. It's the standard second stage of the Camino Francés and is considerably gentler than Day 1's climb over the Pyrenees, aside from the steep descent into town at the end.
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